Maverick’s (Chronicle, 2003)
The history of big-wave surfing is told in the even-number chapters, a deadly five-day swell from late 1994 is recalled in the odd-numbered chapters, and the two stories converge at the end. Foreword by Dan Duane. 224 pages.
“Half slow-ticking thriller, half encyclopedia of extra-large waves, Maverick’s documents the fantasies and facts with awesome precision. I hate this book, because I wish I had written it myself” Andy Martin, London Independent / “Will leave you gasping for air; much more than just another glossy surf-porn book” Outside / “The work of a serious writer in full stride” Surfer’s Journal / ”A thing of beauty…a literate, insightful, informative book. Deft writing and pacing keep readers breathlessly turning pages” Honolulu Star-Bulletin